Angels of the Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria

By David A. Freel © David A. Freel, Ashley Creek Publishing, LLC — April 10, 2026

For our 30th anniversary in March 2018, Rhonda and I traveled to Rome, Italy. It was my first visit, while Rhonda had been before. We used airline miles to fly Business Class on the upper deck of a Lufthansa A380 and redeemed a decade of saved Hilton Honors points for a beautiful suite at the Aleph Rome Hotel in the heart of the city. The luxurious flight and elegant accommodations set the stage for an unforgettable adventure.

Discovering Rome’s Hidden Treasures

We enjoyed exquisite food and wine throughout the trip, whether dining at white-tablecloth restaurants or grabbing street food on the go. More profound, however, was the millennia of history we encountered nearly everywhere we walked in the Eternal City.

Rome is home to four major Catholic basilicas, each incredible in its own right. A fifth gem, the Pantheon, was originally built as a Roman temple for pagan worship and later adopted by the Catholic Church as a minor basilica. The Church has filled its spaces with breathtaking art, frescoes, and sculptures. Even small neighborhood churches often contain masterpieces. One of the best surprises for Rhonda and me was stepping into unassuming local churches and being amazed by their exquisite décor. During the Renaissance, the Church commissioned many great masters to adorn its cathedrals. One of those masters was Gian Lorenzo Bernini.

Our Last Stop in Rome

Rhonda was especially eager to visit the Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria to see Bernini’s famous sculpture in the Cornaro Chapel. It was our final day in Rome. After five days of walking the city and its hills, our feet were sore and we were exhausted. This church was our last stop before returning to the hotel to prepare for dinner.

As we climbed the stairs, we saw the front doors being locked. The church closed daily from noon to 4:00 p.m. for afternoon mass. Disappointed, we sat on the steps to rest our feet. A kind elderly gentleman who had just exited the vestry noticed us and asked if we were there to see the church. He introduced himself as Joseph, a historian assigned to the church by the Vatican. He explained the closure and kindly invited us to return at 4:00 p.m., when he would personally give us a tour.

We happily accepted and went off to enjoy gelato and coffee while resting. At 4:00 p.m., we returned through the vestry door as instructed. Joseph soon appeared and led us inside.

A Private Tour of Beauty and History

Joseph guided us through the nave, explaining each dedicated chapel, the magnificent windows, marble work, artworks, and ceiling frescoes. Beauty was everywhere. Despite a slight language barrier, we were captivated by his fascinating stories.

As we approached the left transept, the stunning Ecstasy of Saint Teresa came into view. Construction of the church began in 1605 and was completed in 1620. Bernini was commissioned to create the sculpture for the new church. He began work in 1647 and completed it in 1652.

Much has been written about the artistic license Bernini took with this piece. To me, it remains breathtaking. Golden rays of “sunlight” shine behind the immaculately sculpted Carrara marble figures of an angel and Saint Teresa, who appear to float on soft clouds—also carved from Carrara marble.

The lighting effects are equally remarkable, especially considering Bernini worked primarily with candles and ambient sunlight. Joseph took us behind and to the side of the altar, offering a perspective not available to regular visitors. From there, we could see how Bernini layered the elements to create depth and drama. He used a window behind the sculpture to backlight the golden rays against the white marble.

Hidden Treasures

Our experience continued with more surprises. Joseph led us to an area not open to the public. Along the side of the church, near where Bernini and his students worked, he opened old wooden shutters to reveal a dumbwaiter elevator designed and built by Bernini himself to hoist marble, tools, and supplies. Remarkably, the dumbwaiter still functions today.

Across from it, in a room now used as a kitchen, stands a large marble table. The block of Carrara marble had been intended for the sculpture but was rejected due to its veining and color. Bernini repurposed it into a table where he and his students would eat lunch and plan their work. That same table remains in use in the church kitchen today.

Unfortunately, no public photos exist to share in this article of the dumbwaiter or marble table, as they are in restricted areas of the church. They remain hidden treasures known mainly to those who have received a special tour.

We finished our remarkable visit by exiting through the vestry. Joseph said goodbye, and we started to head back to the hotel for our last night in Rome.

A Generous Gift

Once outside, Rhonda asked if I had given Joseph a gratuity for the incredible and impromptu private tour. I realized I had not. I quickly returned to the vestry and offered him 50€. He politely refused. During the tour, Joseph had mentioned that the church supported an orphanage. I suggested he accept the money as a donation for the children. He agreed and asked me to wait a moment.

Joseph returned with a beautiful paperback book filled with pictures of the church and its famous sculpture. He explained that he had written it as part of his Vatican historical mission. He insisted Rhonda and I accept it as a gift due to our genuine interest and respect for the church. I offered more money, but he again refused. We thanked him warmly and left.

A Return Visit and a Mystery

In May 2023, we returned to Italy for a family wedding and made sure to include a couple of days in Rome. My mother joined us for part of the trip, and I wanted her to see the cathedral and Bernini’s sculpture that Rhonda and I had grown so fond of. I also hoped to find Joseph again and perhaps purchase another copy of his book. After several moves since retiring from the military, our original copy had been lost or was still packed away.

When we arrived at the church, I inquired in the vestry about Joseph. The staff gave blank stares. A parish priest who spoke English was called. He had only been assigned after our 2018 visit and knew of no one named Joseph. The Monsignor, who had served there for decades, was also summoned. Through translation, he confirmed the same—no record of Joseph.

With special permission and accompanied by the priest, Rhonda and I showed my mother the special elements of our earlier experience: the side view of the Ecstasy of Saint Teresa, the dumbwaiter, and the marble table in the kitchen. The priest was unaware of these details, including Bernini’s dumbwaiter and the table’s origin.

We left having enjoyed seeing the cathedral again, but disappointed that we could not find Joseph or his book.

Our Own Angel?

In Bernini’s The Ecstasy of Saint Teresa, Teresa encounters an angel. My question remains: Did Rhonda and I encounter our own angel of the church that day in the form of Joseph? Was our kind and knowledgeable guide ever really there? Maybe someday I will open an unpacked moving box and rediscover our treasured book for tangible proof that our unexpected encounter with Joseph was real.

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